Enamel

We mix the enamel colours ourselves and apply them by hand, adding different layers until we obtain the desired effect.

A Colourful Touch

Many of Pandora’s jewellery designs are decorated with glossy enamel which is applied to the surface of a piece for decorative effect, depth and a shiny, durable finish.

The vibrant enamel hues are carefully applied by hand with the use of a needle

History

The art of enamelling dates back to ancient times. Some of the earliest pieces of enamel were discovered in the 13th century BC. The enamel technique has since been popular at various periods throughout history. The Art Nouveau era was particularly famous for its highly intricate and beautiful enamelled pieces, including the Fabergé eggs created for the Russian tsar.

Composition

Traditional enamel is glass based. At Pandora we use a modern material called epoxy resin enamel and it does not contain glass. Pandora enamel is far more resistant to chipping and is therefore more hardwearing, which is crucial for Pandora charms and rings, which are popular to wear daily.

Technique

Pandora uses a traditional enamelling technique called “hot enamelling” on most jewellery pieces. Pandora's enamel technique is when the enamel paste is applied to recesses in the jewellery pieces. The first step to Pandora's hot enamelling process is to mix the enamel colours. Then the enamel is applied by hand using a needle. It is then carefully levelled with a toothpick- like instrument to make sure it is completely even. A flame is applied to remove any air bubbles. Once the enamel has been applied, it is fired in a kiln in order to fuse the enamel to the metal surface and make it more resistant to heat and chemicals.

Enamelling Effects & Techniques

Pandora uses enamel with different levels of transparency to create a number of beautiful effects. Translucent or transparent enamel reflects the light to create stunning light effects and a sense of depth. In contrast, opaque enamel adds bold, saturated colour to jewellery designs. The enamel itself can also contain different visual effects: some have a pearlescent sheen similar to mother of pearl while others have a more pronounced glitter effect.

Cloisonné and Champlevé

The traditional Cloisonné and Champlevé enamelling techniques are used to add colour to metalwork by creating small compartments which are filled with enamel paste. The cloisonné enamel technique creates partitions above the surface of the metal object. The champlevé enamel technique involves the creation of depressions below the surface.

Basse-taille enamel technique

Basse-taille is an enamel technique that reveals the base patterns of a jewellery design, the Basse-taille – or “low cut.” This technique applies clear enamel to the surface of the metal, to reveal the pattern underneath when the light hits it.

Shaded Enamel

The shaded enamel process involves multiple layers of enamel applied to a piece of jewellery to create a natural-looking effect. Deep sterling silver channels are made in the jewellery piece to house the first layer of hand-applied enamel.

A second layer of enamel is used to create the shaded effect, adding more concentrated amounts of the colour to certain areas. A final transparent enamel coating is added on top to ensure a smooth surface and even shading. After each of the three layers of enamel is applied, the jewellery piece is then fired in an oven.

Tie-Dye Enamel

Pandora creates a tie-dye effect with shades of blue enamel on this Blue Butterfly Wing charm to recreate the visual effect of butterfly wings.

Glitter Enamel

Glitter gives everything it touches a magical feel. Pandora's glitter enamel takes the wonderful glitter effect and adds it to strong, durable enamel for a sparkly, wonderous expression that lasts and never loses its magic.

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Transparent Enamel

Transparent enamel is simple and striking. Transparent enamel is used on the Pink and Aqua Enchantment charms. Aquatic blue and pale pink hues are applied on top of a spherical sterling silver charm with small raised “beads". The texture peeking through the enamel creates an enchanting effect.

Rainbow Enamel

Vibrant enamel hues are used to create a beautiful rainbow effect on the new jewellery pieces. The colours are not those of a traditional rainbow but has gained a more feminine, Pandora twist.